NETHERLANDS: Haarlem

Haarlem is a small city that neighbours Amsterdam. 

It has cobblestoned lanes, Gothic cathedrals, and a vibrant main square.

The city reached its peak prosperity in the 17th century when it was a refuge for the Huguenots and was an artistic centre.

The Harlem in the US was originally a Dutch outpost, founded in 1658. It was originally named Nieuw Haarlem after Dutch Haarlem in the Netherlands.

Cocktail Party Trivia: Haarlemmers were notorious consumers of beer. It was a popular breakfast drink, and the average person drank six pints a day. Now, keep in mind that could be justified by the fact that back in the day drinking beer was safer than drinking water.  

Grote Markt is in the centre of Haarlem and is the main square where 10 streets converge. It dates back 700 years. We were there on a Saturday, and after the rain stopped, it was buzzing with activity. 

On Haarlem's market square is the Town Hall, the site of the city's government since about 1100 with 17th-century additions. Before it was the townhall it was originally a hunting lodge. 

This building used to be the Meat Market, or Vleeshal (1603). I love the distinctive Dutch roof.

The Gothic Church of St. Bavo dominates Grote Markt and it has been standing there for centuries. Built between 1370 and 1520, with a 262-foot- (80-metre-) steeple it dominates the skyline. 

The church is UNESCO-protected and contains beautiful Renaissance artworks. Famous painters Frans Hals and Pieter Saenredam are buried here,

Inside it is a bit more decorated than many of the other Dutch churches we went into. Notice the church's wooden ceiling.

The church takes great pride in the renowned Müller organ (1738) standing 30 metres (100 feet) high with 5,068 pipes. (No, I did not personally count them to verify the number.)

Many world-known musicians have played this organ, including Mendelssohn, Händel and the 10-year-old Mozart. YES, a 10 year old Mozart played this organ!

To get a perspective on the size you can see someone standing in the lower right hand corner. 

The Amsterdam Gate, moats, and some earthworks remain of the old town’s medieval fortifications. 

Haarlem has a lot of hidden treasures called "hofjes" – small courtyard gardens. The hofies were founded by wealthy people and most are from medieval times. The gardens are surrounded by charitable alms-houses that were used to house poor, unmarried or widowed women. 

In the 17th century there were forty courtyards in Haarlem, inhabited by 5 to sometimes 30 women. Now there are 20 remaining hofies and in 2001 two more modern courtyards were added for a current total current of 22 courtyards in Haarlem. The courtyards are still mainly inhabited by single women aged fifty and older.

The entrances to many hofjes are concealed behind modest doorways or down simple alleyways and contain the names and shields from the wealthy family that donated them. 

The Teyler Museum, opened in 1784, is the oldest museum in the Netherlands. It was the home and collection of Pieter Teyler. It is an eclectic museum that includes collections of art and books, instruments and scientific objects, coins and medals, fossils and minerals. John was very happy here.

A 17th-century alms-house has been converted to the Frans Hals Museum. (At one time it was also an orphanage.) 

Hals is a hometown artist who became the foremost Dutch portrait painter of the 17th-century Golden Age. 

Molen De Adriaan is a windmill that was built in the 18th century and then burnt to the ground in 1932. It was rebuilt in 2002 as a museum. 

Some random scenes from Haarlem.

The train station is art nouveau style and one of the oldest train stations in the Netherlands. Some scenes of  Hollywood’s Ocean’s Twelve were filmed in the station. I am sure the locals had mixed feelings when their daily transportation hub had to make concessions for filming. 

When I took the train to Haarlem this is the best looking person I saw.