BOLIVIA: A Lesson in Gratitude

Mining has shaped Bolivia's history for more than 450 years and remains one of the country's most important industries.

The discovery of silver at Cerro Rico in the 1500s helped make the Spanish Empire enormously wealthy.

It also turned the city of Potosí, Bolivia, into one of the largest and richest cities in the world.

Many of Bolivia’s mines are located high in the Andes at elevations above 3,650 m (12,000 feet).

Mining co-operatives are where groups of miners operate mines collectively, sharing costs, equipment and profits among members.

Co-operatives employ a large share of Bolivia's miners. 

We toured one of Bolivia’s co-operative mines in Potosí.

BOLIVIA: The Photogenic Uyuni Salt Flats

It is not tough to have stunning photos in the Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt flat.

It was formed thousands of years ago when several prehistoric lakes evaporated, leaving behind a huge crust of salt.

During the rainy season, December through May, a thin layer of water transforms the flats into one of the world's largest natural mirrors.

We were there the beginning of April on a perfect sunny day.

BOLIVIA: Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa

From Chile’s San Pedro de Atacama we continued east by vehicle into Bolivia's Andes Mountains and the Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa.

It is part of the same Andean high-altitude (altiplano) region as Chile's Atacama Desert, with elevations of roughly 4,000–6,000 meters (13,000–20,000 feet).

The National Reserve, surrounded by volcanoes and deserts, is a protected area in the remote southwest corner of Bolivia near the borders with Chile and Argentina.

The reserve was established in 1973 to protect endangered wildlife such as vicuñas and Andean flamingos.

CHILE: The Atacama Desert

The Atacama Desert, in Northern Chile, is one of the driest non-polar deserts in the world.

Stretching along northern Chile, it lies between the Pacific Ocean and the Andes Mountains.

Parts of the desert are so barren that scientists use the area to simulate conditions on Mars.

To really explore the area we based ourselves in the little town of San Pedro de Atacama for 4 nights.

CHILE: Solar Cooking in The Elqui Valley of Northern Chile

In northern Chile’s Elqui Valley, there are around 300 cloudless, sun filled days a year.

Experimental cooking harnessing the solar resource in the valley began in the late 1980s through a project led by the University of Chile. 

The project's aim was to reduce reliance on firewood and improve rural livelihoods.

Many of the local women embraced the idea, opening restaurants that serve local cuisine using only solar power to cook their meals.

CHILE: Pisco Tasting

Every country has their “local hooch”.

In Chile, it is Pisco, a traditional grape brandy that has been made for centuries in the northern regions of Chile.

It’s considered Chile’s national spirit and Chile legally protects pisco as a national product. 

This means it can only be produced in certain regions of the country, similar to how Champagne is protected in France.

Of course, we had to go check it out, for educational reasons.

Travel Tips after 4 Years on the Road (by John Kealey)

Photo: April 15, 2022

(I receive no compensation from anyone for these opinions)

Linda and I have been travelling for 4 years now. Here is a summary of all the "little things" we've learned that might make your travel easier.

CHILE: Santiago's Old and New

I have to confess, I like old classical buildings where master craftsmen have added intricate details that have stories to tell.

I find them intriguing and thought provoking while I look for the stories within the stories.

And I also really like when the old and new buildings are side by side comparing how craftsmanship, styles and details have changed.

So this is a post on random buildings in Santiago – the old and the new.

But more emphasis on the the old.

CHILE: Santiago's Barrio Yungay

One of Santiago’s most historic and character-filled neighborhoods is Barrio Yungay.

The neighbourhood was established in 1839 to celebrate Chile’s victory in the Battle of Yungay.

It was also one of the first planned residential neighborhoods for Santiago’s elite.

Over time it transitioned into a mixed working and middle-class area.

Today, it’s a Bohemian neighbourhood recognized as a “Zona Típica” (heritage district), preserving its historical character.

We chose it as a destination for a Sunday walk and created our own self-guided walking tour of discovery.

CHILE: Santiago's Mercado Central

First impressions can be deceiving....

The entrance to the Mercado Central de Santiago isn't too exciting. 

But, inside it is a beautiful building.

It was built between 1869 and 1872 to replace an older market that had been destroyed by fire.

Interestingly, it was designed by a Chilean architect, manufactured in Scotland and then shipped in pieces to Chile.

In 1984 it was declared a National Monument.

And another Claim to Fame: National Geographic has ranked it among the top food markets in the world.

CHILE: Red vs White

There are those that prefer red wine, those that prefer white wine, those that prefer rose, and those that prefer bubbly.

And then there are those that are nondiscriminatory and like them all. Or, don’t like any.

Chile is better known for red wine, but, there are also areas where the climate and soil are better suited to grapes for white wines.

The Maipo Valley and the Casablanca Valley are two important wine regions in Chile, but they produce different styles of wine because of their different climates and soils.

CHILE: The Bohemian Port City of Valparaiso

Valparaíso is a coastal city in central Chile, located about 120 km northwest of Santiago.

It is considered Chile’s Bohemian city.

It’s famous for its steep hills, colorful houses and historic funicular elevators (ascensores) that climb between the lower harbor area and the residential neighborhoods above.

The historic quarter, with narrow winding streets and colonial architecture, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

CHILE: Vineyards and Wine Tasting in the Colchagua Valley

Wine country is always beautiful with rolling hills and a warm dry climate.

It is the climate and topography that grapes thrive on.

We love it too.

So it is no wonder that we love visiting areas with vineyards.

Chile is world famous for their wines.

There is no way we could go to Chile and not check out the beautiful scenery and vineyards – for purely educational purposes.

CHILE: Valdivia Waterfront, Sea Lions and Arm Wrestlers

Valdivia is a historic river city in southern Chile, located where several rivers meet near the Pacific Ocean.

It was founded in 1552 by the Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia.

It’s known for its lush and rainy climate.

We stopped for the night and apparently were very lucky because we had awesome sunny weather.

Valdivia is also known for their sea lions.

And wrestlers.

We got to see both.

CHILE: Heading South

We decided it was time to head south.

Really far south.

To the southern half of Chile and an island called Chiloé, about 1,000 km south of Santiago.

Chiloé Island is the second-largest island in Chile (after Tierra del Fuego), about 180 km (110 miles) long and 50–60 km (30–37 miles) wide in most places.

A small coastal area on the northwest coast of Chiloé is famous for being one of the few places in the world where both Humboldt and Magellanic penguins nest together.

It was the end of breeding season and the beginning of the migratory season, but, we figured we'd try our luck and go check it out anyway. 

More on the penguins later.