SPAIN: Multi-Layered Cordoba

I have become a bit of a History Geek, and the layers of history in Andalusia fascinate me. 

Let's start in 785 AD, when the construction of Cordoba's original mosque began, on top of the site of a former Visigoth church.

During the 10th century, Cordoba was the capital of Al-Andalus and an Islamic powerhouse city.

At the time, Cordoba was one of the largest and most sophisticated cities in Europe —renowned for learning, medicine, philosophy and architecture.

 Over the next two centuries successive Muslim rulers wanted to demonstrate their power and wealth by expanding the mosque. It then become one of the largest mosques in the Islamic world.

Inside, it is full of columns and double arches. In fact, there are over 800 columns made of marble, jasper and granite topped with red-and-white striped horseshoe arches.

This design was both practical and symbolic, creating height, light, and a sense of infinite space. 

The mosque’s mihrab, which points to the direction of Mecca, is intricately decorated with mosaics and calligraphy. 

This visually sent a message to reinforce Córdoba’s status as a cultural and artistic capital of Al-Andalus.

Then, in 1236 power changed when the Christians reconquered Cordoba. Rather than destroy the mosque, the Christian victors “repurposed” the mosque and consecrated it into a Catholic cathedral. But, they still preserved much of the original Islamic structure. 

I liked looking for overlaps of the Muslim and Christian symbols side by side.

I thought this was interesting - they kept the original mosque minaret and then added bells to make it a Catholic bell tower.

You can see here where during successive renovations, workmen engraved their personal icon, representing their signature, to ensure payment for their work.

About 300 years later in the 16th century, the Catholics of Cordoba wanted to demonstrate their power and wealth and "renovated" the cathedral into the center of the mosque.

It was a controversial renovation, but it created the unique hybrid where Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architectural elements, popular at the time of each renovation, are combined within a church, which is within Islamic arches. 

It is now a UNESCO site.

Today, the Mezquita-Catedral (Mosque-Cathedral) of Córdoba is used exclusively as a Roman Catholic cathedral. 

The Mezquita-Catedral (Mosque- Cathedral) is just one example of Spain’s layered history, where Islamic, Christian, and Jewish cultures shaped the same city over centuries. 

Which leads me to Córdoba’s Jewish Quarter (La Judería) reflecting another layer of its past. There was a period when Muslims, Christians and Jews lived in “relative coexistence” in Cordoba.

Narrow streets, whitewashed houses, and shaded patios define the old Jewish Quarter.

Today, Córdoba is also known for its patios, which burst with flowers each spring during the Patio Festival. We were there in November so we missed the spring festival and blooms, but we could still see the pots on the patios. 

And one last mention, because I couldn’t end our visit to Cordoba without talking about the Andalusian horses. The Royal Stables of Córdoba (Caballerizas Reales) are a historic 16th-century site founded by King Philip II to breed the famous Andalusian horse. 

The stables were built in 1570 to develop a superior breed, the Pure Spanish Thoroughbred, known for its beauty and strength.

The stables became the birthplace and core breeding ground for the Andalusian horse.

 

In the evenings they have a performance that showcases dressage, music and flamenco dancing. 

No photos during the show, but, we had awesome seats and got to see the horses jump up off all 4 feet and they reared up on their hind legs in front of us. There was also a flamenco dancer with a horse and rider performing to flamenco music. Very beautiful. 

I’d love to take credit for this photo, but, it is promo piece for the performance. 

I can take credit for this photo though.

This is John hanging out in one of the patios.