BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA: Mostar's Iconic Bridge - Stari Most

Mostar started off as a trading route between the Adriatic Coast and central Bosnia.

It was part of the Ottoman Empire for 400 years and grew significantly during the 15th and 16th centuries.

In the 19th and 20th centuries it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

The name Mostar comes from the word "most", which means "bridge", and it can be translated as “the bridge keeper”. 

This bridge is an iconic symbol of Mostar.

 

In the mid 1500’s, during the Otterman rule, Suleiman the Magnificent (the same man who transformed Constantinople into Istanbul - perhaps another class I slept through?) ordered that the existing precarious wooden suspension bridge over the Neretva gorge was to be replaced by a stone bridge.

The builder, Mimar Hayruddin, was charged to construct a bridge of unprecedented dimensions, under the pain of death. In my humble opinion, I would say that he was under "just a little" pressure to get this bridge right. Reportedly, he prepared for his own funeral on the day the scaffolding was removed. Fortunately, his funeral plans were not required that day.

Upon the bridge’s successful completion it was the widest human-made arch in the world.

It is a single-arched stone structure and is an extraordinary example of Balkan Islamic architecture.

The arch spans over the Neretva river with a height of 24 meters. It is a 30m long and 4m wide bridge, with stone-built towers on both ends.

The stone bridge was a masterpiece when it was built and it is said to be one of the most important structures built during the Ottoman era. Construction took nine years and was finished in 1566.

 

The two towers on either side of the river were built later in the 17th century. They have been used as watchtowers, a prison and ammunition storage.

 

The bridge stood for 427 years. Then, during the Balkan War in the 1990’s Mostar did not escape unscathed. In 1994, Stari Most was totally destroyed in an effort to disrupt the supply line of the Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina. (It was a war within a war.) Approximately 2,000 people were killed in Mostar alone.

 

Stari Most and the Old Town have been restored or rebuilt through UNESCO. The Old Bridge was replicated authentically, utilizing as much of the original design and materials as possible. It was reopened in 2004. In 2005, the Old Bridge was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Some things never change over millenniums. For hundreds of years young men (mostly) like to demonstrate their fearlessness by jumping off the bridge. Jumping into the Neretva River, which is apparently the coldest river in the world, is a risky feat and requires skill and training.

Donations are collected and when they reach 50 euros jumpers douse themselves with river water to acclimatize themselves to the cold river temperature before they jump 24 meters into the Neretva river. Apparently in the summers they make a lot of money. July there are competitions. Since 2015, Stari Most has been a tour stop in the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series.

 Surrounding the bridge is Kujundžiluk (The Old Bazaar) with restaurants, cafes and shops.

In the Ottoman era, it was the spot where all the business was done – 500 workshops were located here.

Now it is restaurants and shops for tourists. Most of the goods are imported from Turkey.

Kriva Ćuprija, aka the "Crooked Bridge," over the Rabobolja creek is a smaller version of Stari Most. Built in 1558, the bridge was considered a “test run” before the construction of Stari Most began. (With the "threat of death" I can imagine a test run would have been a good idea!)

Islamic architecture and buildings from the Austrian-Hungarian period blend together in Mostar.

There are buildings still riddled with bullet holes from the Yugoslavian War.

Hum Hill, with a white, 100-foot-high cross, gives great views of the city which is nestled in the deep valley of the Neretva River flanked by the Dinaric Alps. 

Back to the bridge..... fortunately, John did not feel the need to try impress me with his bridge jumping skills,

 

but chose instead to try to impress me with his good looks and charm.