CYPRUS: Nicosia - A City Divided by a Border

Nicosia is the capital city of Cyprus and is also the largest city on the island.

Because of the Turkish invasion in 1974, Nicosia has the dubious distinction of being the last divided capital city in Europe. 

The southern part of the city is controlled by the Republic of Cyprus and the northern part of the city is controlled by the self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC).

The Green Line, a demilitarized zone (DMZ), cuts across the heart of the city separating neighborhoods, families and communities.

It is patrolled by the United Nations.

Since the war, access between the north and south was severely restricted. In 2003 checkpoints were opened, making it easier for people to cross and slowly reconnect.

At the Ledra Street Crossing we showed our passports and crossed by foot from the Republic of Cyprus on the southern side, to explore the Turkish northern side.

The Büyük Han Bazaar was built in the 16th century during the Ottoman era. It is a historic caravanserai, which was a roadside inn along major trade routes where travelers, merchants, traders, pilgrims and their animals would stay.

Typically built as large enclosed courtyards, with a single entrance for security, caravanserais had rooms surrounding the courtyard where travelers could rest. Many also included stables, storage areas and even small mosques. 

Today, it houses shops, cafes, and restaurants.

The Selimiye Mosque was built in the 13th century. Originally, it was a Gothic Catholic cathedral with vaulted ceilings, pointed arches, and flying buttresses. It was one of the most significant churches on the island serving as the seat of the Roman Catholic archbishop. The church was converted into a mosque following the Ottoman conquest of Cyprus in 1570. 

Right now it is under renovations and we could only walk around it.

These are some of the interesting mix of buildings we discovered walking around.

The Old City of Nicosia was once a thriving and vibrant city. But, now some historic mansions, former hotels, and shops are empty shells. 

This is because following the Turkish invasion in 1974 many Greek Cypriot residents in the north fled to the south leaving their properties behind. 

 

With complicated ownership and limited funds for restoration, these buildings have been neglected resulting in cracked walls, broken windows and faded facades.

Some streets just dead-end into the wall separating the city.

This wall made of barrels and twisted wire is also the wall for a cafe. 

 

 

To cross back into the Republic of Cyprus we reversed our steps and walked across the border again.

John's quest for a good cup of Turkish coffee and treat of Turkish Delight was successful. 

 

 

Truthfully, I think it was just an excuse for some Turkish Delight.