ITALY: From Natural Disaster to Stunning Baroque Masterpeices

A massive earthquake, estimated 7.4 to 7.7 on the Richter scale, struck southeastern Sicily in January 1693.

It was one of the most devastating natural disasters in Italian history destroying dozens of towns.

Some —like Noto Antica—were abandoned and rebuilt entirely in new locations

Others, like Ragusa, split in two where the upper part (Superiore) was rebuilt on higher ground, while the old city (Ibla) was gradually reconstructed

The reconstruction period produced a unique and flamboyant Baroque style, now called Sicilian Baroque.

The rebuilt towns are designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Because they were rebuilding whole towns after the earthquake, planners and architects could start with a blank sheet of paper. Timing was during the height of the Baroque period in architecture, so the new buildings were characterized by curved facades, ornate balconies, wrought iron railings, grotesque figures, dramatic staircases and open piazzas. They used the local limestone to construct the buildings.

NOTO

The old town of Noto’s devastation was so complete that the decision was made in the early 1700's to rebuild Noto entirely from scratch in a new location a few kilometers away. Entering the new/old town, visitors pass through the Porta Reale o Ferdinandea. 

 

The Church of Santa Chiara is up a steep staircase and next to the Benedictine Monastery.

 

 

The Noto Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Nicolò) was built at the top of a dramatic staircase and has a grand façade, majestic dome, and elegant twin bell towers.

 

When we were there they had the interior of the cathedral blocked off for those wanting to watch the inauguration of the new Pope on a big screen TV.

Directly opposite the Cathedral is the Palazzo Ducezio (Town Hall). Construction began in 1746.  It is curved to match the oval shape of the square. 

 

 

 

 

 

 The Teatro Comunale Tina di Lorenzo opened in 1870. Its original name was Teatro Vittorio Emanuele III. It was renamed in honor of Tina di Lorenzo, a renowned Italian stage actress born in Noto in 1872.

 

  

 Street scenes in Noto.

RAGUSA

Ragusa was another city that was devasted by the 1693 earthquake. It is uniquely divided into two main parts. Ragusa Superiore is the modern rebuilt upper town. It was organized on a grid plan, with wider streets and "modern" infrastructure.

It is home to the impressive Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista, built between 1738–1775. The cathedral is elevated above the piazza by a dramatic flight of steps emphasizing its grandeur. The cathedral dominates Piazza San Giovanni with its imposing façade and dual bell towers.

Dedicated to Saint George, the town’s patron saint, it contains the relics of Saint George and the altarpiece is of St. George slaying the dragon

When we went they were preparing for a wedding and a choir was practicing, which made it very elegant.

 

Guests in uniform were congregating outside the church. 

Ragusa Ibla is the ancient lower town that was rebuilt on the old medieval site. There is a labyrinth of narrow lanes, staircases, and stunning Baroque churches and palazzi.

Because of its "cinematic atmosphere" it was often featured in "Inspector Montalbano", a popular Italian TV series, often standing in as the backdrop for the fictional town’s cathedral.

SCICLI

Nestled in a valley in southeastern Sicily, is Scicli, another town that was devastated and then rebuilt after the earthquake of 1693. One of its most famous streets, Via Francesco Mormino Penna, is a showcase of Baroque architecture, lined with buildings like the Palazzo Beneventano and the Church of San Michele. 

 

 

Scicli serves as the fictional headquarters of the police station in the Italian TV series "Inspector Montalbano."

The 1693 earthquake that devastated so many towns in Sicily, while tragic, led to one of the most ambitious and beautiful urban rebuilding efforts in Europe. The cities that rose from the rubble are now architectural treasures, drawing visitors from around the world.

 

P.S. 

Many thanks to Mathew and Maggie for flying in from London to meet us and explore with us. 

One of the downfalls to being Grey Nomads is that our "social life" is very limited, so we were thrilled to have a real "social life" with them. Many thanks for joining us.