PERU: The White City of Arequipa

Arequipa is a colonial city in southern Peru.

It sits at about 2,335 metres (7,660 feet) above sea level and is surrounded by 3 volcanoes.

It is often called the “White City” because many of its historic buildings are made from white sillar, a pale volcanic stone created from eruptions of the volcanoes.

The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is known for its Spanish colonial architecture, large plazas, and churches.

The mountains dominate the vistas in Arequipa and make great backdrops to photos. 

Misti, the most iconic volcano, has an elevation of 5,822 m (19,101 ft). It is still considered an active volcano even though it has been quiet for centuries. This is comforting to know. 

Arequipa’s city centre is only about 17 km from Misti's summit.

The last confirmed eruption of Misti was a small eruption/ash emission in 1985. 

Chachani, at about 6,057 m (19,872 ft), is the highest of the three volcanoes surrounding Arequipa.  It is a volcanic complex with several peaks and older volcanic formations.

And then there is Pichu Pichu at about 5,664 m (18,583 ft). It has archaeological evidence connected to Inca ceremonial activity. (YIKES!)

In the historic UNESCO centre is The Plaza de Armas, with the cathedral and sillar buildings surrounding it. Hence the nickname the “White City.”

The architecture style is mainly Spanish colonial, but it also developed a local character by blending European designs with Indigenous craftsmanship. 

Many churches and mansions have highly detailed baroque-style carvings in sillar, including floral patterns, animals, and Indigenous-inspired designs.

It was fun to look for the combination of styles.

The architecture also reflects the need to adapt to earthquakes. (EARTHQUAKES! Another reassuring thought!) The structures are often low, solid, and built with heavy stone rather than tall fragile walls. 

Buildings often have thick walls, large courtyards, carved stone doorways and rounded arches.

Close to the cental Plaza des Armes is the Monastery of Santa Catalina, a 16th-century convent that looks like a small city with streets, courtyards, and colourful buildings. 

It was founded in 1579 by a wealthy widow, and it became one of the most important convents in colonial Peru. Even though it is called a "monastery, the convent was home to Dominican nuns, many from wealthy Spanish families and was largely closed to the outside world for centuries.

It is a huge complex covering about 20,000 square metres, almost like a small city with streets, plazas, courtyards, and private living areas.

Built mainly from sillar (the white volcanic stone), with colourful walls in areas painted blue, red, and orange to denote the different "villages".

During the colonial period, especially among wealthy Spanish families, becoming a nun wasn't necessarily a personal decision. Some families sent daughters to convents because it was considered an honourable and respectable path.

Convents were sometimes a way to provide for daughters who were not expected to marry or inherit family wealth.

Entering a convent could require a large dowry, so many of the early residents that came from wealthy backgrounds provided the funds to sustain the monastery. 

Apparently, life inside the convent was not always the strict life that people assume. At Santa Catalina, some wealthy nuns had servants, private rooms, or suites with other family members, and more comfortable living conditions than ordinary women of the time.

With diminished nuns and funds, it opened to the public in 1970, revealing its preserved colonial rooms, artwork, kitchens, and religious spaces.

An interesting glimpse into an era, life and lifestyle so different from ours.

Joining a monastery or convent does not appear to be in any of our futures. 

Many thanks to Bill and Bettie for joining Marie, John and me on our Peruvian adventure. Friends joining us always makes it more fun.