CANADA: Looking for Grizzly Bears

I am not exactly sure where I got the brilliant idea to go on a Grizzly Bear Tour, but somehow, I figured it would be a good idea.

I knew this time of year the grizzly bears are feasting to get ready for their winter hibernation.

I also knew this was the time of year when the salmon return to their spawning grounds

I figured hungry bears would be more interested in gorging themselves on salmon than on curious people.

I have to admit, sometimes I have really good ideas. And sometimes I have fantastic ideas!

This fell into the latter category.

We started our journey in Campbell River, on Vancouver Island, and took a 2 ½ hour boat ride over to the mainland of BC (the province of British Columbia) into Bute Inlet. 

The land belongs to the Homalco First Nation and they manage the ecotourism in the area. The Indigenous nation sees the grizzly bears as powerful spiritual beings. 

We always take our photos with our iPhones, but, I figured this was too special to take a chance with an iPhone, so John sourced a local company that rents cameras and we headed out with a big honkin’ camera, that I had never used before. 

Because I am a curious and detail person, I have to understand both the salmon and the grizzlies, so, let’s start with the salmon. Each year from August through October thousands of salmon (chum, pink, and coho) return from the Pacific Ocean to fight their way upstream to the glacier-fed rivers that flow into Bute Inlet. 

Their purpose is to reproduce in the same streams where they were born 3 to 5 years earlier. 

Spawning salmon are entirely focused on reproduction and they stop feeding once they enter freshwater. The female digs a shallow nest in the gravel, then releases her eggs while a nearby male fertilizes them with his milt (sperm). Other males may compete for a chance to join in. 

After spawning (releasing eggs or milt) their organs gradually shut down and they die within a few days to a couple of weeks. Their carcasses leave behind nutrients that feed everything from moss to eagles to bears.

NOTE TO SELF: Photos of spawning salmon are not that interesting. 

Because this is nature and nature isn't like a zoo where the animals are pretty much guaranteed to be there, we have to keep our eyes peeled for wildlife. 

This is where a knowledgeable guide comes in. They can spot things we don't see. 

Look closely, with the super-duper lens there is a grizzly far away.

With more patience and exploring we are successful! A mother with one very shy cub!

What makes a grizzly bear different than other bears? Grizzly bears have a muscular hump on their shoulders, thick, often grizzled fur, and a concaved shape face.

 Omnivorous, they thrive on salmon, berries, and forest plants, living close to rivers and temperate rainforests that provide both food and shelter. 

They have powerful limbs with long claws for digging and catching prey, and a stocky, strong build.

 For the grizzlies, this is feasting season. The bears gorge on salmon to build fat for the long winter hibernation ahead.

Since generally there is such a plethora of salmon, the bears often eat only the richest parts of the fish — the skin and eggs — and leave the rest to scavengers and to nourish the forest.

So, now a couple more details that only curious minds want to know (otherwise known as "Cocktail Party Trivia".) Grizzly bears in Bute Inlet prefer to eat the salmon before and during spawning, rather than after. 

This is because before spawning the salmon are strong and full of energy and are highest in fat and protein, making them the most nutritious for bears. Pre-spawn salmon helps bears pack on fat for winter hibernation. 

Bears will eat salmon milt (the sperm released by males) as well as eggs. In fact, both eggs and milt are highly nutritious, rich in protein and fat, and are often easier for bears to digest than the fish’s flesh. When a female lays eggs and a male releases milt, bears may scoop up both from the gravel or shallow water, sometimes ignoring the body of the fish entirely if the reproductive material is especially abundant.

I like details, so I had to dig further. Female grizzlies give birth during winter hibernation in their dens. Which means she is not fully awake when her cubs are born. 

The mother remains in the den with her blind cubs in a semi-dormant state. Her first litter is usually when she is around 4–6 years old.

They remain asleep while nursing their tiny cubs. Litter sizes are usually 1 to 3, with roughly equal numbers of males and females. 

Her body is adapted to provide warmth and milk to her cubs while conserving energy. She moves just enough to care for the newborn cubs, keeping them close and nursing them, but she does not leave the den or become fully active until spring.

A female grizzly bear typically has cubs every 2–4 years, depending on her health, age, and food availability. In the wild, a coastal grizzly can live two decades or more.

The cubs stay with their mother for 2 to 3 years, learning to fish, forage, and navigate their territory before dispersing to establish their own ranges.

Grizzly cubs in Bute Inlet face many risks in their first years. Predators like adult males or wolves, food shortages, accidents in rivers or cliffs and disease can all threaten their survival. Cubs that make it through these early challenges have a much better chance of reaching adulthood. 

We watched in silence from the other side of the river.

Until mama grizzly decided that it was time to move on.

I was fascinated watching the mama and her shy cub. It was so peaceful. When it was time to leave I felt sad. 

Many thanks to the Homalco Nation for allowing us to enter their lands and to have the thrill of watching grizzlies in their habitat.